A Love Letter to D.C.’s Resilient Dining Scene

It’s been a brutal year, but one rich with hope and perseverance. Despite the continued devastation of the pandemic, the D.C. dining scene has begun staging a determined comeback. Not a return to whatever normal used to be — rather, a rebirth. Now is a time where old norms can be thrown out, allowing new ideas to blossom. I’ve been so inspired watching chefs take the lead on social justice causes and restaurateurs opening new ventures in this utterly unpredictable environment. At all levels of the industry, there is a wealth of grit, tenacity and creativity as people continually pivot and adapt. Thank you to everyone who is working hard to keep us fed and elevate our spirits through their hospitality. It isn’t easy, but it is appreciated — and it won’t ever be forgotten.

10 Industry Leaders to Know

Marcelle Afram
Chef, Shababi
The ex-Maydan chef’s heritage shined brightly at Shababi, an Alexandria pop-up serving West Bank style rotisserie chicken accompanied by clever sides, like pickled cucumbers topped with dukkah-inspired chili crisp and za’atar dusted fries. Next year, D.C. will become home to an expanded version of Shababi combined with a Palestinian diner. Plus, the outspoken trans advocate will debut an online support system for queer Arabs. shababichicken.com // @marcelle_g + @shababichicken

Angel Barreto
Chef, Anju
After rising through the ranks at the Source, Barreto stepped into the spotlight to helm the modern Korean restaurant Anju, helping make it a breakout hit. Deeply knowledgeable, hardworking and big hearted, Barreto’s irresistible dishes include crispy AF fried chicken, over-sized yache wang mandu packed with spicy Impossible meat and an epic ssam board. Anju: 1805 18th St. NW, DC; anjurestaurant.com // @angellbarreto + @anjufrc

Will Fung
Chef, China Chilcano
Over the lockdown, the Tiger Fork and Hei Hei Tiger alumnus created Fat Choi, an interactive take-home hot pot experience. After his breakout success, José Andrés tapped him to lead the kitchen at his vibrant Peruvian-Chinese-Japanese mashup China Chilcano in Penn Quarter. He now oversees the tantalizing cross-cultural menu — from ceviche and dumplings to stir-fry and noodles.
China Chilcano: 418 7th St. NW, DC; chinachilcano.com // @chinachilcano

Jo McDaniel + Rach “Coach” Pike
Founders, as you are bar
Borrowing its name from the classic Nirvana song, the queer-friendly venture began as a virtual happy hour and trivia session during the lockdown. Now McDaniel and Pike aim to make as you are bar IRL by opening a daytime café/nighttime dance club on Barracks Row sometime in 2022. asyouarebar.com // @asyouarebar, @thejomcdaniel + @theycallmecoach25

Ashleigh Pearson
Chocolatier, Petite Soeur
An alumna of Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York and Marcel’s, the artist-eyed pastry chef is putting out some of the prettiest sweets in the District. Her dainty Georgetown shop showcases hand-painted bonbons, caramel-filled chocolate bars coronated with edible gold and buttery sablé cookies. They’re almost too pretty to eat. Almost. Petite Soeur: 1332 Wisconsin Ave. NW, DC; petite-soeur.com //@petitesoeurdc

Margaux Riccio
Chef, Bubbie’s Plant Burgers & Fizz
The pioneering chef has a knack for transforming meaty fast-casual favorites into plant-based doppelgangers that lose none of their original charm or craveability. In February, she’ll open the second location of Asian-minded Pow Pow and a permanent location of Bubbie’s Plant Burgers & Fizz. After that, she’ll turn her talents to two new concepts: Italian deli Cenzo’s Upper Westside and Tacos Dios. Bubbie’s Plant Burgers & Fizz: 1829 M St. NW, DC; bubbiesburgers.com // @bubbiesplantburgers + @margaux_riccio

Rob Rubba
Chef, Oyster Oyster
A deep commitment to sustainability drives this visionary chef’s veg-forward tasting menu restaurant — from responsible, regional ingredient sourcing and a natural wine list, to compostable takeout packaging and a plant-able menu dotted with flower seeds. In the coming months, the graffitied garage space next door will open, offering a chill hang spot for pinball and oysters on the half shell. Oyster Oyster: 1440 8th St. NW, DC; oysteroysterdc.com // @oysteroysterdc + @robrubba

Carla Sanchez + Juan Sanchez
Co-founders, Casa Kantuta
Their colorful pop-up speakeasy Casa Kantuta, which ran July 8 to August 8 out of sPACYcLOUd Lounge, celebrated the siblings’ home country of Bolivia with lots of singani (muscat grape brandy) and salteñas. Decked out with traditional textiles, figurines of Ekoko (the god of good luck and prosperity) and glammy gold accents, the vibey hideaway was a much-needed pandemic oasis. Stay on the lookout for a permanent location this spring. casakantuta.com // @casakantuta

Paola Velez
Pastry Chef
After high-profile stints at Kith & Kin and Maydan, as well as co-founding the Bakers Against Racism initiative, the Bronx-born, Dominican-rooted pastry pro has struck out on her own. The new year will bring a second season of her “Food & Wine” online baking series and she’ll be popping up at events around the country. bakersagainstracism.com // @bakersagainstracism + @smallorchids

James Wozniuk
Chef, Makan
The Maketto vet’s Malaysian redoubt in Columbia Heights became a Covid-era go-to for diners seeking electric flavors that comfort to the core. Makan’s standouts include hearty beef rendang accented with lemongrass and nutmeg; wide ribbons of Penang street noodles enfolding Chinese sausage nuggets; tender yu choy swimming in yellow bean gravy; and crackly- crisp fried chicken. Makan 3400 11th St. NW, DC; makanrestaurantdc.com // @jameswozniuk + @makan_dc

10 Foodie Spots to Visit

Cracked Eggery
It’s never too late for breakfast at this Cleveland Park upstart. Hearty #yolkporn sandwiches — from “the Mayor” (scrambled eggs, sweet and spicy bacon, American cheddar and tangy remoulade) to the “Paulie Cicero” (fried egg, prosciutto, ricotta, sundried tomato, arugula and hot honey) — are complemented by trendy tots, like truffled garlic parm and jalapeño cheddar and draft nitro cold brew from Compass Coffee. 3420 Connecticut Ave. NW, DC; crackedeggery.com // @crackedeggery

Daru
A pair of Rasika vets — chef Suresh Sundas and operations guru Dante Datta — debuted their Indian-ish outpost at the eastern end of H Street corridor this summer. Dishes marry unexpected flavor combinations, such as blue cheese marinated chicken kebabs, za’atar-olive naan and beetroot halwa, while cocktails work in spices from the subcontinent, like turmeric, tamarind and black cardamom. 1451 Maryland Ave. NE, DC; darudc.com // @dantedatta, @daru.dc + @suresh_sundas

Donut Run
With a poppy punk rock aesthetic and eye-catching hot pink takeaway boxes, the Takoma doughnuttery is a head-turner. Their vegan sweets are just as attractive and even more delicious. Standouts include the plumped-up Boston cream, tropical-minded mango-coconut and seasonal fritters that will give you all the feels. 6904 4th St. NW, DC; donutrundc.com // @donutrundc

Incheon Restaurant
After a career on the Hill, Justin Ahn turned to cooking, earning his stripes at Alex McCoy’s Alfie’s. Set in Annandale, his first solo project is Korean-centric but with a cheffy mindset. He selected distinctly un-Asian risotto for the menu, but makes it with dashi and dots it with boiled abalone. 7118 Columbia Pike, Annandale, VA; incheonrestaurant.com // @incheonva + @justin.s.ahn

L’Ardente
Stop by L’Ardente for glammy Italian with a twist from Unconventional Diner’s David Deshaies. His fun, flavorful dishes are designed to pop on Instagram, including epic 40-layer truffled lasagna, flambeed tiramisu set fire tableside and duck ravioli served in charming web-footed ramekins. The luxe space in East End with towering ceilings and showy accents has plenty of photo ops, too, like a cheeky neon sign beaming, “Please don’t do coke in the bathroom.” 200 Massachusetts Ave. NW, DC; lardente.com // @chefddavideshaies + @lardentedc

Little Food Studio
Chef Danielle Harris’ cozy Petworth spot has earned a devoted morning following for its flakey sausage rolls and blood orange-zested scones studded with balsamic-infused tart cherries. Come lunchtime there’s another line for her sandwiches, including “the Lynne,” packed with hot capicola, gorgonzola cheese, arugula and hot honey that oozes enticingly off the sides. Be warned: Favorites sell out quickly, so go early. 849 Upshur St. NW, DC; littlefoodstudio.com // @chefdmh + @littlefoodstudio

Michele’s
Chef Matt Baker of Michelin-starred Gravitas wears his heart on his sleeve at his newest restaurant inside the Eaton hotel. Named in honor of his late mother, the bustling brasserie is a nod to her New Orleans roots, his own time growing up in Houston and his long-standing love of classic French cooking techniques. 1201 K St. NW, DC; michelesdc.com // @chef_mbaker + @micheles.dc

Pogiboy
If McDonald’s were a chef-driven Filipino concept, it would be this fast-food stall in D.C.’s The Block. The brainchild of Tom Cunanan (Bad Saint) and Paolo Dungca (Kaliwa), Pogiboy serves burgers forged from tocino (cured pork shoulder laced with brown sugar) and longanisa (sweet sausage), fried chicken perked up with tamarind powder and deep-fried guava-apple hand pie.1110 Vermont Ave. NW, DC; pogiboydc.com // @paolodungca, @pogiboydc + @tomccunanan

Rāko Café
Coffee-obsessed sisters Lisa and Melissa Gerben lead this Arlington sip-stop, highlighting their single-sourced beans. Order a pour-over to revel in the details of a roast or go non-trad with a rosemary-ginger or black salt-lavender latte. Not in the mood for caffeination? There’s an enticing menu of natural wines, creative craft cocktails and fun small bites. 2016 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA; rakocoffee.com // @anandal1a, @lisa_gerben + @rakocoffee

Z&Z Manoushe Bakery
For those not in-the-know, manoushe is somewhere between pita and pizza. At Z&Z Manoushe Bakery, the griddled-to-order Levantine flatbreads come dressed up with brothers Danny and Johnny Dubbaneh’s beloved za’atar along with other house-made toppings: garlicky toum, tangy labneh and Aleppo-pepper spiked honey. If you want to bring these flavors home, they sell their seasonings and spreads separately. 111 Nelson St. Rockville, MD; zandzdc.com // @zandzdc

Walk on the Wild Side

The pandemic forced on all of us too much screen time and time inside. My escape was heading into the forest on long rambles with Jonathan Till, owner of Heritage Foraging, a corporate chef with Blagden Hospitality Group and my wild food guru. He began educating me on the edible plants ready to be savored by those bold enough to seek them out and wise enough to properly identify them. As we came out of winter, the forests began sporting springy new suits of green finery and we reveled in hunts for ramps and elusive morel mushrooms. When summer bloomed, tangy-sweet wineberries and golden chanterelles were the objects of our searches. In the fall, we picked delightfully tropical tasting pawpaws and kept our eyes wide open for clusters of hen of the woods mushrooms clinging to the sides of crumbling stumps. No matter what we found — and sometimes our backpacks remained empty — the treks through the quietude of woods were worth it. I was outside; I wasn’t looking at a screen. That peace was priceless.

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