Buzz-Free, But Still Buzzworthy

It seems like the biggest trend in drinking these days is not drinking. Bar menus are increasingly offering thoughtfully crafted sober options billed as zero-proof, nonalcoholic, booze-less and spirit-free. There’s a burgeoning industry of NA beer, wine, spirit and bottled cocktail producers; and dry or alcohol-optional bars are popping up across the country — including three in the D.C. area. This is a big change from when Laura Silverman first got sober in 2007. Back then, the most interesting adult-oriented nonalcoholic options were O’Doul’s and the occasional mocktail, usually a brightly colored concoction that was super sweet or distractingly sour. She wasn’t interested anyway, worried they might be triggers in her recovery process.

A few years ago, she began getting comfortable with the idea of booze-free bevvies, right around the time she noticed a wider and more interesting array of options becoming available. This led the North Bethesda-based Silverman to start a pair of websites focused on nonalcoholic cocktail culture: Booze Free in DC and Zero Proof Nation. Her sites aren’t just aimed at teetotalers, but at anyone taking a booze break. “There’s a sobriety spectrum,” she says. “There are many reasons why people don’t drink — pregnancy; they’re the designated driver; a big meeting in the morning; Dry January; medical or religious reasons; they’re training for a marathon; they’re straight-edge or in recovery. So, you might not drink tonight or the rest of your life, or anything in between.”

A Burgeoning Booze-Free Market

Though adult-friendly nonalcoholic beverages have obvious appeal for the sober serious, the sober-curious are becoming their largest consumers. According to a study released last year by data and market measurement firm Nielsen, 78% of nonalcoholic beverage buyers are also purchasing alcoholic beer, wine or spirits. Overall in 2021, nonalcoholic beverage sales increased 33% to $331 million, while online sales of nonalcoholic and low-alcoholic beverages increased by an astounding 315%.

Marcos Salazar, CEO of the newly formed The Adult Non-Alcoholic Beverage Association estimates there are now over 100 independent adult-focused nonalcoholic beverage producers — such as Lyre’s, Athletic Brewing Company, Dry Botanical Bubbly, Ritual Zero Proof — as well as more traditional brands producing nonalcoholic alternatives as a part of more diverse portfolios.

“There’s been a general shift over the last decade of people wanting to be more mindful and conscious about how they live their lives,” Salazar says. “The pandemic had an impact as well. People have taken a step back and are reevaluating their relationship with alcohol.”

Silverman sees the appeal of these drinks blossoming after people age out of their hard-partying twenties.

“People are looking for something that has the same flavor profile and excites the palate,” she says. “And for those people who want the same experience without the consequences. It’s still sexy, it’s still fun, but you wake up without a hangover.”

Disco Mary Does Sober-Curious

Maria Bastasch is betting on the sober-curious at her hippy futurist Disco Mary pop-up at the Columbia Room. Offering an array of spirit-free “immaculate concoctions,” all of them can be fortified with booze. Her partner in the venture is the Columbia Room’s owner Derek Brown, who is also her boyfriend. The award-winning mixologist and cocktail historian underwent a transformational relationship with alcohol several years ago after confronting his bipolar depression.

“I had failed to address mental health issues and alcohol in my life in a substantial way,” he says. “I came to the conclusion I couldn’t drink anymore. Now I’m a mindful drinker.”

While working at the Gibson around 2008, Brown made his first nonalcoholic cocktail: an orgeat lemonade from a recipe in Jerry Thomas’ foundational cocktail book “How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivant’s Companion,” published in 1862. From then on, NA cocktails became a part of his repertoire.

“I was never like, ‘Oh my god, you don’t drink? F–k that!’” Brown says. “I always saw it as an exciting opportunity to make great drinks.”

In 2020, he got more serious about nonalcoholic cocktails, deciding he needed a guiding theory on how to make one. What separates it from juicy mocktails, unconventional lemonades and fancy sodas?

“A cocktail has an intensity of flavor, that’s a critical component,” he says. “It has a piquancy, which is the bite. And there’s volume; they’re not just lemon and sugar.”

His philosophy is codified in his recently published book, “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No- and Low-Alcohol Cocktails with 60 Recipes.” He was filled with doubt about how people would look at a bartender who was now proselytizing nonalcoholic beverages.

“[I’ve already] told everyone to drink well,” he says. “Now what was I going to tell people? I’m not against drinking alcohol, but I do think people often use it for the wrong reasons [like] I did. My goal became to offer people a choice.”

The Social While Sober Equation

Sam Kasten aims to offer a choice to anyone looking to go out without having alcohol be part of the social equation. In February, she opened Umbrella Dry Drinks, a pop-up nonalcoholic bar and bottle shop in Alexandria’s Seedling Collective space. Sober for over three years, Kasten is aiming to open a permanent location in Alexandria by summer.

Her menu focuses on nonalcoholic plays on well-known cocktails, such as a zero-proof Gold Rush employing Spiritless Kentucky 74, a bourbon alternative, lemon juice and honey shrub, and a G&T riff made with Seedlip Garden 108 and cucumber tonic water. The goal is to offer next-level options.

“A nonalcoholic cocktail is sophisticated, elevated,” she says. “It’s served in a beautiful, intentional glass with a nice garnish. And it has an interesting flavor profile that gives you the experience of a cocktail, just without the alcohol.”

This spring, Gigi Arandid plans to roll out the coyly named Binge, a booze-free bar on the H Street corridor. Sober since 2017, she is currently testing out recipes for spirit-less cocktails.

“It has to be transportive and take you to a place you’ve never been before,” says Arandid, who served a cherry bomb spritzer with blueberry conserve at the bottom at a recent pop-up. “It’s about not being afraid to use new textures and flavors.”

The space will be designed to be experiential with a mural from painter-designer Chris Pyrate, moss-covered wall and a growing cabinet featuring ingredients for drinks and dishes. A gallery area and stage will offer local artists and musicians a space to showcase, while the compact kitchen will turn out light bites focusing on vegan fare.

These probably won’t be the last dry bars in D.C. region either. Additionally, expect to see a flood of new nonalcoholic options in bars, online and on the shelves at the local liquor store. Going forward, sober-minded drinks are going to be a permanent part of the landscape.

“I think it started as a trend,” says Silverman, “but it has grown into a movement.”

Binge Bar: 506 H St. NE, DC; @_bingebar_

Booze Free in DC: boozefreeindc.com // @boozefreeindc

Disco Mary at Columbia Room: 124 Blagden Alley NW, DC; discomary.com // @discomarycollective

Umbrella Dry Drinks: @umbrelladrydrinks

Zero Proof Nation: zeroproofnation.com // @zeroproofnation

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