Chef Nicholas Stefanelli Talks Ever-Evolving Style

The Le Clou chef speaks on style in and out of the kitchen.

We are spotlighting the myriad voices redefining what it means to be stylish in the nation’s capital — from designers and stylists to entrepreneurs and athletes whose unique stories and perspectives shape bold visions. Check out our full Curators of Style roundup in the May issue here. 

Whether it’s a suit jacket or a side of beef, Nicholas Stefanelli knows a good cut when he sees one. A native Marylander and graduate of L’Academie de Cuisine, the stylish chef heads some of the District’s most refined restaurants, praised for their elevated cuisine, curated wine lists and sumptuous interiors. 

Masseria, a Michelin-starred homage to rustic Italian cooking, opened in 2015 near Union Market. Its younger sibling Officina houses a trattoria, café and market over three floors at The Wharf. In 2022, Stefanelli opened Philotimo downtown, honoring his Greek roots. Now, he’s opening three new spots in NoMa’s swank Morrow Hotel: Le Clou, a chic modern brasserie; Vesper, an intimate lounge clad in blacks and blues; and Upstairs, a breezy rooftop bar with views of the Capitol. We caught up with Stefanelli to talk style in and out of the kitchen.

District Fray: You set out to study fashion in Italy, yes?
Nick Stefanelli: When I got out of high school and was trying to figure out what I was going to do with my life, fashion was something I was drawn to. I worked for a master tailor for two and a half years. I thought I was going to go into men’s fashion. I started exploring options of studying overseas. That’s when I discovered food and fell in love in hospitality. I came back, enrolled in culinary school and then started cooking. I haven’t looked back. 

Do you see similarities between fashion and food?
There are definitely touch points we try to bring into our restaurants, like in napkin details or the fabrics we use. Some companies do tabletop pieces. I’m a big fan of Versace’s plate ware. It’s all over Masseria. 

What goes into creating a restaurant?
It’s always fun because we’re dealt this box, [the physical space,] and then we have to figure out how to make everything fit inside. I use a lot of tracing paper to draw and redraw plans. Then we start going through with mood boards and the fabrics and the paints and the wood and the tile, bringing in the management side of it. Also working with the chef de cuisine on the menu. We have a really strong team. I give the overarching structure in the beginning, but they have a lot of runway to play and be creative. After a restaurant opens, you’re still tweaking, changing details. All of my restaurants have gone through cycles of maturing and evolving. 

Any common elements between your restaurants?
All our kitchens are open, but all their aesthetics are really different. They all have their own souls and identities. 

I love Vesper’s luxurious, moody look. Where did that come from?
The inspiration is the Miu Miu store in Porto Cervo [on Sardinia]. I saw it five years ago. It was all baby blues and mirrors, a stunning visual from the outside. We have a baby grand piano coming in for live music and a serious cocktail program. It’s going to be a lot of things. 

What’s style like in your kitchens?
We tend to keep it a little more classic, white chef’s jackets and aprons. I went to Catholic school, so I grew up in a uniform.

Any accessories you wouldn’t be without?
I take a spoon I’ve had since I worked at the Ritz Carlton everywhere. It’s around 16 years old. I’m afraid it’s going to get a hole in it.  

What’s the story behind the Sicilian saying on the menu at Masseria?
I was reading this small book on the history of pizza and pasta. It was all in Italian. But this proverb was in that book: “Dress to satisfy others, but eat to satisfy yourself.” I thought that was so true. You’re not seeing yourself in your clothes. You’re putting them on for other people. But when you’re eating, you’re eating for yourself. 

Learn more about Stefanelli’s concepts within The Morrow Hotel — Le Clou, Upstairs and Vesper — at themorrowhotel.com. Follow him on Instagram @nickstefanelli.

Masseria: 1340 4th St. NE, DC; masseria-dc.com // @masseriadc

The Morrow Hotel: 222 M St. NE, DC; @themorrowhotel

Officina: 1120 Maine Ave. SW, DC + 1615 L St. NW, DC; officinadc.com // @officinadc

Philotimo: 1100 15th St. NW, DC; philotimodc.com // @philotimodc (currently under renovations)

Chad Dexter Kinsman