Tucked Away on 16th Street, Le Sel Delivers Updated French Fare

This French bistro recently launched a new brunch menu with decadent French dishes to savor on its secret garden-esque patio 

Located behind a lush, hidden garden just steps off of 16th Street, Le Sel at the Kimpton Banneker Hotel feels like a private French bistro, completely removed from the bustle of the city beyond it. With a Parisian brasserie aesthetic, including the mesmerizing black-and-white tiles, marble tables and sumptuous channeled benches, Le Sel, or “salt” as it translates in French, goes beyond an average hotel restaurant.

And, with Executive Chef Walter Silva at the helm, Le Sel recently launched a new brunch menu that leans heavily into its French side but with modern, creative updates. Silva borrows from foundational French dishes, then leans into unique angles like pairing a classic éclair with an everything bagel. 

Seated at a table that straddles indoor and outdoor, the ambiance is relaxed but with a soundtrack that’s just electronic enough to feel like you’re in a buzzy hotel restaurant. There’s a mix of guests, some there to grab breakfast before rushing out to make their flights home and others who’ve come dressed to make brunch a weekend occasion, ready to imbibe bloody marys and bubbly cocktails. 

Brunch began with a cappuccino and La Colombe coffee, along with an elderflower gin & tonic and a nonalcoholic blueberry smash, which is one of the best zero-proof drinks I’ve ever had. Its blueberry and rosemary simple syrup makes for a concoction that is refreshing and flavorful without sipping too sweet.

Never one to turn down an abundance of bread, I had to spring for the French pastry board, which came with a delightful mix of croissants, éclairs, muffins and baguettes. I strongly maintain there’s nothing better than a flaky croissant with a touch of butter and strawberry jam, and this solidified that belief.

Our decadent bread board was followed by the croque monsieur with French bistro ham, emmental cheese, brioche, cured egg yolk, and dijonnaise and the smoked salmon. Where you’d typically have an everything bagel with your smoked salmon, Le Sel does an “everything éclair,” plated with all the traditional fixings of  sliced cucumber, capers, onions and chive cream cheese. 

We almost bypassed the jumbo lump crab hash in lieu of sticking to the more traditional French dishes, but, thankfully, our server saved us. The dish arrived with a soft poached egg on top, a squeeze of lemon and a generous dollop of aioli for a mix-it-yourself situation. Giant chunks of lump crab, vibrant radishes and a touch of greens make for a heavenly combination. It’s creamy, warm and everything I didn’t realize a hash could be. Order one for the table — or yourself.

Other dishes that caught our eye included the pain perdue, with caramelized bananas, pecan butter and grand marnier-infused maple syrup, the escargot with garlic pernod butter and fresh baked baguette, and the chicken and crepes, a playful take on chicken and waffles with bearnaise-brined crispy chicken, crepes, espelette maple syrup and scallions. If I’d been in a lunch mood, the smash burger sounded like a must-have with flavors that include artisanal smoked goat cheese, shoestring potatoes and pepper aioli.

Le Sel is serving its new brunch every Sunday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., perfect for early risers and those running late to lunch.

Le Sel: 1315 16th St. NW DC; leseldc.com // @leselrestaurant

Heather Bien